Cycling in the Douro Valley, Portugal
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Terraced vineyards of the Douro Valley, Portugal
The Douro Valley is a stunning area of Northern Portugal, full of sleepy villages and steeply terraced vineyards. The region is named after the Douro River which runs through the valley - the source of the river is in Spain and it flows into the Atlantic Ocean at Porto, Portugal. Earlier this year, I was lucky to have the opportunity of cycling around the Portuguese Douro region, and fell in love with the countryside and its people.
Porto, gateway to the Douro Valley
Our trip began with a visit to Porto, a popular city break destination in Europe and I can understand why. The city centre is easy to walk around and has a welcoming feel. It’s also steeped in history, with no less than three UNESCO World Heritage sites:
The historic Ribeira district along the banks of the Douro River includes the city’s medieval buildings and is now a incredible place full of colourful building facades and restaurants.
Porto’s Ribeira district taken from the Dom Luís 1 bridge
We crossed over the Douro River via the lower deck of the Dom Luís 1 Bridge (BTW, another UNESCO World Heritage Site). This double-decker iron bridge was designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel - yep, of the famous Eiffel Tower in Paris.
On the opposite bank is Vila Nova de Gaia famous for its Port wine cellars. Historically, the barrels of wine from the Douro Valley were transported by boat to Gaia. The wine would then be taken to one of the port lodges along the riverbank before being shipped abroad. These old wine cellars can still be seen, and many are open for wine tasting.
From the riverbank, we took a cable car up to the top deck of the Dom Luís 1 Bridge, then wandered back over the river to do more exploring in Porto. I could go on about the amazing places we visited - the 20,000 traditional Portuguese azulejo tiles in São Bento railway station, the cathedral, the gothic architecture, and so much more - but words don’t do it justice. Go see it for yourself!
Cycling in the beautiful Douro countryside
The following day, we drove out to the Alto Douro to begin six days of cycling around the Douro region.
We stayed two nights in Alijó at the fabulous Casa D’Arcã - shout out to owners Luísa and Mario who have created a beautiful and very welcoming place to stay.
Traditional Portuguese food, Casa D’Arcã
We spent two days exploring the countryside around Alijó, cycling through vineyards and stopping to take in the breathtaking scenery. Pedalling along quiet roads, linked by the occasional gravel track, we visited beautiful small villages and soaked up the views.
Descending down to the banks of the Douro River at Pinhão was one of the highlights of the trip. With far reaching views across the steeply terraced vineyards, it was hard to keep my eyes on the road. Thankfully, there were plenty of spots to pull over, snap a few pics, and simply admire the scenery.
The Douro Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the world’s oldest demarcated wine region. We learned that the grape harvest here is still a traditional process. Workers pick the grapes by hand, carrying heavy crates on their backs through the steep vineyards. The grapes are then taken to large stone tanks, known as lagares, where they’re crushed by foot in the age-old practice of stomping.
The terraced vineyards of the Douro Valley
Leaving Alijó behind, we made our way to Vila Real, a university town alongside the Corgo River. Our route took us past the stunning Mateus Palace, and I couldn’t help but laugh when I recognised it. The palace is famously featured on the Mateus Rosé wine bottle, so loved in the 1970’s and, dare I say it, so terrible to drink! The architecture of palace itself though is amazing, and its open for visitors.
Vila Real was a quick overnight stop before we continued on to the historic town of Lamego. The journey between the two was another interesting one as we spent the day cycling on the N2, Portugal’s answer to Route 66 (or if you’re from the UK, the North Coast 500).
For such a popular travelling route, it felt surprisingly ok for cyclists. Throughout the week, I was struck by how Portuguese drivers would give plenty of space. In the UK, I’m often uneasy cycling in traffic, so it was a very welcome change.
Arriving in Régua on the banks of the Douro, we found ourselves in a bustling town, popular with river cruises and the local tourist train. Régua is also home to the Douro Museum where you can learn more about the region’s winemaking heritage.
Cycling from Vila Real to Lamego
Cycling past the historic architecture of the Douro
Leaving Régua behind, we began the climb up the Varosa Valley to Lamego.
And wow, what a place it is!
As we approached Lamego, the stunning Nossa Senhora dos Remédios came into view. It’s set on top of 686 steps, with an incredible Baroque staircase that has fountains at different levels. I was glad to learn that we’d be visiting it later.
Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, Lamego
I loved Lamego! It was full of stunning historic architecture but also had a small-town friendliness that made it feel instantly welcoming. For the next two nights, we stayed at the fabulous Lamego Hotel & Life, complete with swimming pool and spa.
The following day, we set out to cycle a loop from Lamego, reaching the highest point of our trip at 725m. The views from here across the Douro were spectacular. The landscape on this day changed noticeably too, with cherry orchards replacing the vineyards.
On our final day, we cycled through tiny villages and fruit orchards. Each day had its highlights but, if you forced me to choose, this might have been my favourite.
We pedalled over a medieval bridge, past historic monuments, and rode alongside more vineyards. We even had a fun gravel section through orchards to complete our adventure. Finally, we descended back to the Douro River at Régua where our trip ended.
I’ve given details of our itinerary below - jump to see or make an enquiry here*
Medieval bridge at Ucanha, Portugal
Cycling and wine tasting in the Douro region
Our cycling tour of the Douro ended perfectly with a visit to Quinta da Firveda. Here, fifth generation winemaker Louísa welcomed us with a guided tour of the vineyard and winery. We learned about the family’s history and passion for winemaking before settling in to sample their port wine.
I’ve not mentioned it before now, but every day of our journey included the chance to visit a Quinta and sample local wines!
On our first day, we’d visited Quinta da Faísca known for its Moscatel wine - a fortified wine similar to port but produced just outside the Douro’s demarcated region. And, on our final day, we cycled right past the entrance to the Caves da Murganheira, famed for their sparkling wines.
Honestly, there are more Quintas and wine cellars here than you can count - not to mention the wines served with every meal. If you’re a wine lover, you can’t go far wrong in the Douro!
Barrels of wine at Quinta da Faísca
What’s cycling in the Douro region like?
I tried to think of a word that could summarise cycling in the Douro region - and failed. Because there simply isn’t a single word that can fully capture the experience.
‘Wow!’ came to mind, but even that doesn’t begin to share the sentiment.
The Douro region has spectacular scenery. The valleys are steep and dramatic, with sweeping views. Yep, that means pedalling up some steep hills, but luckily, we had the luxury of e-bikes, and they did all the hard work for us.
What struck me though, was the diversity of the landscape. Some days, we cycled through endless terraced vineyards. On others, we pedalled through pine forests and mountain terrain. But we also found ourselves cycling through fruit orchards, brimming with cherries, apples, and elderflowers. Then we’d drop down to the Douro River and get different views again.
If you like history, you’ll love the Douro. It’s a region full of historic monuments, beautiful architecture, and sleepy villages that feel frozen in time, still following old traditions. You can stop off en-route, lock up your bike, and go explore historic sites.
If food and wine is your thing, the Douro is definitely the place to be! From amazing restaurants, to the countless Quintas offering wine tasting, it’s full of unforgettable flavours and experiences.
But, for me, the people of the Douro captured my heart the most. Every day, we received cheery waves and calls of ‘Bom dia’ (good morning) as we cycled through villages. We were met with warm welcomes, and received even warmer goodbyes with the promise of lasting friendships.
That’s the feeling I’ll remember most from my week cycling through the Douro - the genuine warmth and friendliness of its people.
Our day by day itinerary
Day 1: Porto
Day 2: Alijó circular loop (16.6 km / 10.3 miles)
Day 3: Alijó to Pinhão loop (37.9 km / 23.5 miles)
Day 4: Alijó to Vila Real (51.8 km / 32.1 miles)
Day 5: Vila Real to Lamego (38.9 km / 24.2 miles)
Day 6: Lamego to São Martinho de Mouros loop (42.3 km / 26.3 miles)
Day 7: Lamego to Peso da Régua (45.5 km / 28.2 miles)
Interested in booking a cycling trip in the Douro Valley?
Complete the form below, and I’ll put you in touch with the local tour operator for a quote.
Disclosure: I may receive a small referral commission if you make a booking, but the price you pay will be the same as going direct)
Douro Valley e-bike cycling holiday enquiry form
PS. The Douro Valley is a great place for a walking holiday too!
Note: This trip formed part of a work project for content writing, but the views and thoughts are all my own personal experience.
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Outdoor-Girl is run by Jacquie Budd, an outdoor adventure and marketing content writer for brands that care about their impact on people and the planet.
